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For an avid explorer and a nature-lover like me, a trip to Meghalaya is a bundle of joy packed with enchanting experiences – deeply connecting, full-on adventure and at the same time highly delightful. Meghalaya – meaning the ‘abode of clouds’ is a state that forms a part of Seven Sisters where one can experience the feeling of walking on the clouds, soak up in the beauty of mesmerizing hills, be captivated by the stunning cascades, explore the formidable caves, open up one’s senses to the healing powers of the sacred forests, enjoy the scenic hikes and treks or simply treat oneself to the delectable Khasi culinary delights. But beyond the nature’s bounty and the adventures the state offers, there are other unique and fascinating elements that make Meghalaya a very distinct and special state. My recent travel to this north-eastern gem offered me a lens to look at some of the lesser-known facts of this culturally-rich, tribal-dominated state.
Living root bridges – the natural wonders
Featuring on top of the list are the living root bridges – the nature’s marvel that are unique to Meghalaya (and Nagaland) and are now included in the tentative list of UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites. These are suspension bridges created by the villagers – mostly the Khasi and Jaintia tribes by weaving the aerial roots of the Indian rubber tree, and which take roughly 15-20 years to form into a perfect, sturdy shape. Traditionally, the bridges served as the medium for transporting materials and supplies between the villages. But over the years, they have emerged as natural structures resilient to extreme weather/rainfall related disaster events, while presenting themselves as a hallmark of nature-based engineering. Importantly, they stand as living witness to the profound harmony between humans and nature – the one that bears close resemblance to the moon-world in James Cameroon’s visual masterpiece Avatar.
Photo: Double Decker living root bridge, Nongriat
Meghalaya is home to nearly 100 living root bridges that are found in over 70 remote villages. While all of them are single level, the Double Decker bridge in the Nongriat village is the holy grail with two layers running into 20 meters, deep in the dense tropical forest with a splendid view of the Umshiang river flowing beneath it. Getting there is a decent of 2,400 feet with 3,500-3,600 stairs, requiring determination but truly worth it. And for those willing to adventure a little more, getting down to the Rainbow Falls – which is another 1.5 kms of steep decent through a difficult terrain can be truly rewarding. The serene waterfalls with clear blue water creating a natural pool effect along with a visible ‘rainbow’ in the spray as the sunlight falls on them is a sight to behold. And if you’re not lucky enough to spot the rainbow, never mind. A splash in the boulder-strewn pool or a dip near the falls will more than make up for it.
Community model – the heart of sustainable development
Meghalaya, with its abundance of nature takes pride in a community-centric model that runs deep in the socio-economic fabric. From laying down roads to cultivating farmlands, from constructing schools to maintaining the forests –everything is community-driven with the role of the government being limited to maintaining law and order, at best. A reason why such a model is so prevalent and dominant could be found in the fact that nature has traditionally been accorded the highest status in the lives of major tribes – Khasis, Jaintias and Garos, and consequently, the tribal communities held complete control of managing the natural resources. Besides, majority of the land (residential and agricultural) is privately-held, leaving no room for government intervention. And this is because Meghalaya is governed by the Sixth Schedule in the Constitution of India which offers special protection to the indigenous and tribal groups by establishing autonomous district councils who have direct control over the land. I was quite surprised when our guide told us that citizens do not pay property tax in much of the rural belt, as the land belonged to the tribal people. The citizen-centric, community-driven model one gets to see here has been a pathway to developing sustainable ecosystems, with funding support from the World Bank. Truly, a template that the rest of India can find inspiration from.
Photo: Rainbow Waterfalls near Nongriat village, Cherrapunji
Matrilineal society – women all the way
Perhaps the most fascinating part of this pine-fresh mountain state is the existence of matrilineal structure which means everything from property to surnames to business is passed on from mother to daughter. What is even more fascinating is the fact that despite the system being contrary to conservative Christian doctrines (Christianity is a major religion), it has withstood the test of times, including the British colonialism, and remains firmly grounded even today. Men invariably move into their in-laws’ house after marriage or live separately but rarely with their own parents. It is women who run the show be it at home, business or in the farm. Meghalaya is the only place in India, where preference is given to the daughters and not son to inherit the ancestral property. The youngest of all sisters is handed the entire property and she becomes the caretaker of all the siblings and the ancestral assets. Sounds too hard to believe, but when our guide narrated his own account along with a few others he knew of, I for a moment, felt as though I was teleported to an utopian world!
Photo: A food centre inside Mawlynnong village
Cleanliness as a way of life
Cleanliness is next only to Godliness – a doctrine that is so closely intertwined into the lives of Meghalaya’s tribal communities, so much so that it is a way of life. While most of us would prefer heading out to a lavish lunch on a weekend or treating ourselves with an aromatic therapy, people of Meghalaya use that for cleaning the environment. Every villager comes out on Saturday for a cleanliness drive to pick up all plastics and rags. People not only sweep their own houses, but they also sweep the roads and collect dry leaves fallen from the trees and put them in their hand-crafted bamboo dustbins. Mawlynnong – the cleanest village in Asia stands true to the acclaim and is impressive on several counts. I was spellbound by the beauty of this village with 150-odd square-shaped houses, all of them neatly stacked, each with a beautiful portico, hanging pots and a garden, fully functional toilet and a cone-shaped bamboo dustbin. The village is a plastic-free, no-smoking zone and each one follows the rule, though it was disheartening to see a few tourists litter around leaving the trash behind, and the villagers plogging all the way, without any whine or wail. A contrasting sight, with a lot of lessons to take away from.
Love marriage - the de facto model
For a country where the institution of marriage is still largely an ‘arranged’ affair and a big fat family extravaganza, Meghalaya presents a starkly different picture. Love marriages are the default and de facto model, where the decision of choosing a life partner is left entirely to the consenting adults. Live-in relationships are quite popular and have been well accepted by the tribes, even before it got legal in India. Then there is also the concept of ‘organized courtship’ wherein communities hold harvest festivals and dance rituals where young adults explore partners/suitors without any taboo. The practice works purely on open consent and involves exchanging courtship gifts as a gesture of acceptance. And if you thought, this was a qualifier for Meghalaya to be branded a liberal, progressive state, wait for this one. There is no dowry system and the groom’s side pays for the bride’s clothes and jewellery – stomping patriarchy in one blow!
When I set out on my sojourn to Meghalaya, all the images that ran on my mind’s screen were those of the scenic treks, the stunning landscapes, the green meadows and floating clouds. Little did I know that this journey would open up interesting and fascinating facts about a state that is an integral part of India, but in reality, has its distinct existence and identity. The many colours of Meghalaya, the richness in the heritage, the culture and traditions, the tribal lifestyle, the hospitality and simplicity of the locals, and the abundant bio-diversity only leaves me in awe and inspiration.