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Each new year comes with new hopes for new beginnings, adventures and journeys. To me, a trip to Rishikesh, dubbed as the Yoga capital of the world, marked the start of the year 2023. And sure, it couldn’t have gotten better than that. There is something about the place, that one instantly gets hooked to it at the very first sight. The infinite flow of divine energies, the colourful lights that deck up the town, the peaceful and cool vibes that run in the air, and the calming sight of tranquil waters of river Ganga surrounded by the mighty Himalayan foothills are quite infectious, so much so that I fell in love with Rishikesh the moment I set foot.
A wall art at the entrance of The Beatles Ashram, Rishikesh
What makes this town unique and different from other overtly religious centres is the sheer variety it offers in terms of experiences – be it for a spiritual seeker, an ardent pilgrim, an adventure junkie, a nature lover, a culture vulture, a foodaholic or for that matter an avid traveller – Rishikesh will not disappoint you. This is also a place where you can get ‘high’ by indulging in soulful experiences, one of which is the art of hopping – the slang I prefer using, to describe the myriad flavours of this Gateway to the Himalayas. The hopping tours in Rishikesh are also the best way to experience the town’s breath-taking natural splendour while soaking in the historic glory.
Café hopping: On top of my list is the café hopping tour that is sure to entice even the not-so bon vivant, with a plethora of innovative and fusion vegetarian cuisines to choose from. One might ask, for someone who lives in Bengaluru – touted as India’s pub capital, what is so fascinating about the cafes in Rishikesh? Well, to me it’s simply the quaint, rustic and sober ambience, soul-soothing music, mesmerising view of the Ganges and the hippie colourful wall art that adorn most of these cafes, that make them so distinct and appealing. Many of them sport a contemporary look with tastefully decorated light wooden interiors, relaxed floor seating with yogi-style mats, unusual pillows, and vibrant wall colours along with serving up fresh, organic preparations which make them buzzing hotspots. Some even host live music on weekends featuring local artists and a majority of them offer a global menu with continental, Indian, Chinese, Tibetan, Mexican, Italian and Israeli cuisines featuring prominently.
The cafes are broadly concentrated in two large clusters – one along the Laxman Jhula Road and another in the central part of the town in Tapovan. The Little Buddha Café - arguably the most sought after café, is a quirky treehouse-style cafe with tables overlooking the river Ganga. This also appears to be the hot favourite among the foreigners who love whiling away the time sipping a cold coffee. While the cosy space and chill-out zone infuse cool vibes, I found the service time a little too long. Tat Café – my favourite is a great spot to sit and relax for a few hours, listen to the soothing sound of the Ganges and catch the breath-taking sunset while sipping a mint lemon detox tea. If you prefer a soulful retreat and some solitude, then Shanti Shanti Café should be your pick. The café offers a scrumptious range of Mediterranean vegan dishes, a relaxed double-decker sitting area in an open-air setting and Mumma Ganga blessings for free😊 If you want to catch the old-world charm, then do not miss the Beatles Café. Dedicated to the popular 60’s musical band – The Beatles, the café overlooks the Ganges and features a book space, sitting lounge, a huge wall panel done up with vinyl records and sports an Insta-worthy look, to give you that perfect shot! Other popular cafes include Chatsang Café, Pure Soul Café and Organic Kitchen, Om Freedom Café, Café Karma, Café de Goa, Shambala Café, So Hum Café, Bistro Nirvana, The Ganga View Café and The Pyramid Café.
A view of the mountains and the Ganges at sunset from Tat Cafe, Rishikesh
Besides the café culture, Rishikesh is also famous for its street food crawl and local delicacies. A must-try is the traditional Garhwali cuisine at the Chotiwala Restaurant with their wholesome desi thali. I got lucky to gorge on the winter-special Gahait paratha and Gahait soup - seasonal delicacies made from a special type of lentil unique to the Garhwal region that left my taste buds wanting for more.
Beach hopping: If you thought Goa alone could conjure up images of beaches, think again. Rishikesh has its own pristine, white sand beaches along the banks of river Ganga, which are enough to give you an adrenaline rush. The spectacular views from the intersection of white sand and clear, turquoise coloured water are a sight to behold. Ganga beach, the most popular amongst the beaches in Rishikesh along the Laxman Jhula Road is a perfect getaway to unwind and spend quality time soaking in the natural beauty. This is also the most frequented beach by tourists given the ease of access and location. Neem beach – which is known as the endpoint of river rafting trips is more peaceful and serene, offering an ideal place to laze around for a few hours or simply sit and meditate to the soothing sounds of Ganga. My favourite is the Shivpuri beach, about 16 kms from Rishikesh with lovely views and landscapes. The beach stretches all the way through to Vashishta Cave, allowing one to immerse in the beauty and tranquillity of the place. Compared to the beaches on the coastline, these beaches offer a boatful of treats to nature lovers – from sunrise and sunset to views of mountains and forest-clad cliffs to experiential activities such as camping, yoga and meditation. Time comes to a standstill, as one sits gazing at the beautiful Ganga flanked by majestic hills.
(P.S.: Beach camping is banned along the Ganga from Kaudiyala to Rishikesh following an order by NGT in 2018 to prevent waste disposal and pollution of river Ganga)
Ashram hopping: As someone who loves silence and solitude, Ashrams have always fascinated me. I couldn’t have found a better place than Rishikesh to embark on this expedition. Rishikesh boasts of several Ashrams with calm and serene settings, perfect for beginning a spiritual sojourn (or go deeper into it). These ancient centres of spiritual learning offer diverse courses and programs in yoga, meditation and spirituality for those keen to explore the journey. For the uninitiated and first-timers, Parmarth Niketan is the place to start off the hopping tour. The Ashram, the largest in Rishikesh houses 1,000 rooms on a sprawling eight-acre campus and is situated by the banks of Ganga. It is one of the top yoga centres in India and the one which hosts the International Yoga Festival. The beautifully laid out garden, the view of the clean-green Ganga and the evening Aarti are popular draws to this place.
Parmarth Nikentan Ashram by the banks of the Ganges
If you prefer a less crowded and secluded Ashram, then Sivananda Ashram could be your bet. Located near Ram Jhula, the Ashram was founded by Swami Sivananda and offers free yoga and meditation classes daily for visitors. Osho Gangadham is another peaceful retreat located on the river Ganga at Brahmapuri, about 10 minutes’ drive from Rishikesh, offering a calm setting, reading space and meditation camps. For a slightly offbeat and unique experience, a visit to Rishikesh Yogpeeth is highly recommended. The Ashram, which offers yoga teacher training programs and retreats is situated on the foothills of the Himalayas surrounded by the forest adjacent to a village called Patna, and just above the famous Patna waterfall. It takes around 40-50 min to hike up the mountain to reach here and the path is surrounded by dense greenery, making the experience distinct and fulfilling.
For those keen on an elaborate tour, there are other Ashrams such as Yoga Niketan, Anand Prakash Ashram, Swami Dayananda Ashram, Sadhana Mandir, Swarg Ashram, Omkarananda Ganga Sadan and Swami Rama Sadhaka Grama Ashram that offer rich insights into Yogic lifestyle and spiritual development. If you thought, Ashrams are for serious, boring beings (like me), you’re surely mistaken. A tour of the famous Beatles Ashram will instantly see the cool quotient moving up, attracting even the history buffs, nature lovers and photo fanatics alike. Known as Chaurasi Kutiya, the Ashram houses 84 meditation caves constructed from 1976-70 with round stones used in them being taken from the shore of the Ganga. Established by Maharishi Mahesh Yogi in 1961, it is here that The Beatles band came to practise Transcendental Meditation (TM). The place inspired them so much that the rock band is reportedly known to have penned 48 songs during their stay in the Ashram. The major attractions of the ashram include its stunning dome-shaped construction, amazing graffiti works and murals, and the beautiful picture of the members of the Beatles band painted in one of the interior walls.
A wall painting of The Beatles rock band with Maharishi Mahesh Yogi inside Chaurasi Kutiya Ashram, Rishikesh
Adventure hopping: Also known as the adventure capital of India, Rishikesh boasts of several adventure sports that range from bungee jumping (the highest platform in India at a height of 83 meters), cliff jumping, giant swing, flying fox (Asia’s longest with 1 km), zip lining and white water rafting. While many of these adrenaline-pumping sports may be the preserve of real daredevils, one activity that should not be missed is white water rafting on the river Ganga. The river transition from the Himalayas via the Shivalik hills to the plains has many challenging rapids and drops that are quite a thrill to maneuver. The rafting routes range from easy to difficult depending on the length and grades of rapids. The most popular route is the one that starts from Shivpuri and ends at Neem beach covering a distance of 16 kms. I opted for this tour and clearly, this stands out as the most memorable experience – the moments where I lived my fear, navigated the untamed waters, celebrated the joy of sailing through the speedy currents and finally let my body float in the icy cold waters of the holy Ganga, in the comfort and company of five university graduates (my co-rafters) who had flown in from South Dakota and under the tutelage of our instructor Krishna.
A view of Garud Chatti bridge during white water rafting from Shivpuri to Neem Beach
Waterfalls hopping: If you are someone with less/no inclination towards adventure, beaches, food or spirituality, you need not be disappointed. You can head out to explore some of the most enchanting and secluded waterfalls – a lesser-known fact about Rishikesh. Hidden and surrounded with forests, these falls offer peaceful avenues to sit back and relax in the lap of nature. The most popular one is the Neergarh waterfall which trails through the forests leading to the 25 feet high waterfall with crystal clear pool at the bottom. Patna Waterfall is another point of interest and a must-visit escapade. Its unique drizzling effect combined with a sneak-peek into the village life makes it a perfect site to unwind. One needs to hike up the waterfall to reach the village that is home to the famous Rishikesh Yogpeeth. Besides, there are other waterfalls such as Phool Chatti waterfall, Garud Chatti waterfall and the Secret waterfalls – all within 5 kms from Laxman Jhula Road that will calm your senses and rejuvenate your souls.
Patna Waterfalls on Neelkanth Temple Road, Rishikesh
Rishikesh’s peaceful vibes and myriad flavours will leave you with a refreshing experience, and for some it could be a life-changing one. It is the confluence of the ancient and the modern, the co-existence of the traditionalists and hippies, and the pilgrimage of the spirit and mind that makes this small, serene town a truly fascinating place to explore and ignite the wanderlust in you. I can’t wait to be back there for my next set of escapades.